They say every journey begins with a single step, but mine began with a car ride—off to meet Larry and Eloise for what would be an adventure of a lifetime. From the moment we touched down in Antananarivo, Madagascar proved to be a land of contrast, wonder, and untamed beauty.
This wasn’t just a holiday; it was the fulfilment of a long-held dream. From bustling city streets to remote rainforests, from encounters with lemurs and chameleons to breathtaking landscapes that seemed untouched by time, every moment was an immersion into the extraordinary. The journey would be long, the days packed with exploration, and the hikes sometimes punishing—but the rewards? Beyond words.
Come along as I recount this unforgettable expedition, filled with wildlife encounters, rugged terrains, and the kind of experiences that leave a lasting imprint on the soul. Madagascar, here we go!
After a very full and snug flight, we’ve finally made it to Antananarivo. Lovely little flat in a place called Au Bois Vert Lodge. Quick freshen up before Dinner then we will have a happy walk around tonight to see what’s around!
Vakona Lodge
Leaving the bustling streets of Antananarivo behind, we ventured deeper into Madagascar’s rural landscapes. The contrast was striking—city life gave way to quiet villages, where people moved with purpose, working the terraced paddy fields that stretched across the rolling hills.
Our journey took us towards Andasibe, home to Madagascar’s famed rainforests. At the park gates, we met our guide for this leg of the adventure, Dimasy, who would lead us through Villageois, a community-owned reserve. A short drive later, we were on foot, weaving through dense vegetation in search of the island’s unique wildlife.
Here we were lucky to see day gecko’s, skinks, snakes and a small group of Indri. Further into the trail we had a group of Common Brown Lemurs run up to meet us, they sat mere inches from us expectantly waiting, we do not know what they were waiting for though.
After checking into our Hotel and grabbing a snack we headed back out for a night walk. Here our first surprise was a Cat Tailed Dwarf Lemur walking the wire over the road. After this, with the sounds of frogs and crickets we explored the forest. Mouse Lemurs were our next discovery, small and grey brown and resembling a Furby, we watched them licking the sap from trees. A number of juvenile Nose Horned Chameleons were see too. Then, within 10 feet of our pickup point we found a Mossy Leaf Tailed Gecko.
After a beer to celebrate we retired for some much needed rest.
Day 2 gave us 2 more hikes, in 2 different reserves. Today would be Lemur day it seemed. Firstly we came across another family of Indri, who treated us to a display of their territorial call, ear splitting and haunting but wonderful to witness. After leaving the Indri in peace we headed higher up the slopes and met a group of Diademed Sifaka that we watched feeding contentedly for a while. The morning walk was rounded off with a Grey Bamboo Lemur, barely glimpsed through the foliage.
After Lunch we headed out once more, and this time had the incredible experience of hand feeding some Indri.
Antsirabe Royal Palace Hotel
A VERY long day in the bus today. We left Vakona Lodge and started the long journey towards Ranomafana. The condition of the roads and the amount of traffic meant it was impossible to reach Ranomafana in one day, so we will stay overnight in Antsirabe. The journey revealed the extent of the terraced farming, and the sheer number of people involved. All the labour is done by hand by people of all ages. It looks truly backbreaking work.
We also passed dozens of the wood fired brick kilns, where all the hand made clay bricks are dried and hardened ready for sale. After this, another massive day of driving but we are finally here, Ranomafana! I’ve been wanting to come here for over 25 years, and I’m here.
Good Morning Ranomafana!
The sun is shining, the river flows down the cascades, and the view from my bed is enough to make you cry. Every shade of green imaginable, birds in every tree and Day Gecko’s basking in the sun. Ranomafana, I greet thee!
Ranomafana National Park
After wanting to visit here since 2000, I’m pleased to say the park did not disappoint. These hikes are not for the faint hearted but I wouldn’t have missed a second. Ranomafana National Park was established in 1991 and covers an area of 416 km2. It is relatively high elevation, with the park ranging from roughly 800m to 1200m above sea level. It is a very “up and down” park and takes it out of you, but the views! We saw 4 species of Lemur, the Red Fronted Brown Lemurs ( Eulemur rufifrons ), the Milne Edwards Sifaka ( Propithecus edwadsi ), the Greater Bamboo Lemur ( Prolemur sinus ) and the Golden Bamboo Lemur ( Hapalemur aureus ). There was also a Ring Tailed Mongoose ( Galidia elegant ) and the ICONIC Satanic Leaf Tailed Gecko ( Uroplatus phantasticus ).
The breathtaking views, the endless variety of bugs and insects and the beautiful birds combine to make Ranomafana an incredible place to visit
Ranomafana Night Walk
It’s forbidden to be within the park at night, so Nocturnal Walks are done around the Park Boundary. We all met by the park gate and in the typical African fashion the night came upon us very quickly.
Everybody was poised ready for the emergence of the Brown Mouse Lemur ( Microcebus Rufus ), a nocturnal species. They appeared on branches along the road side to lick sap from the trees. They were very timid but were incredible to observe.
As the number of people built up around the Mouse Lemurs we decided to move on and look for Chameleons. We were not disappointed, with the first one spotted within 10 metres. This was an O’Shaughnessy Chameleon ( Calumma oshaughnessyi ), one of 13 we spotted that night.
We also saw Blue Legged Chameleons ( Calumma crypticum ) and a Short Horned Chameleon ( Calumma brevicorne). The evening was rounded off with a Madagascan Bright Eyed Frog ( Boophis madagascariensis )
Ranomafana Arboretum
A quick visit to a beautiful location. Established in 1984 by an American Botanist, this beautiful garden delivered in bunches. We were treated to Yellow Lipped Parsons Chameleons ( Calumma parsonni ), the largest species of Chameleon in the world. We also saw Greater Vasa Parrots ( Coracopsis Vasa ) fighting in a tree. Looking in the trees we also found 2 types of reed frog. We had the Betsileo Reed Frog ( Heterixalus Betsileo ) and the Starry Night Reed Frog ( Heterixalus alboguttatus )
Anja Community Reserve
Between Ranomafana and Ranohira, we stopped off at the Anja Community Reserve. This is a community run reserve that has a large population of Ringtail Lemurs ( Lemur catta ). They are not tame but they are definitely tolerant of humans, resulting in ultra close encounters. We also got to see Oustalets Chameleons ( Furcifer oustaleti ) and an incredibly colourful locust.
Ranohira
Short stay in Ranohira. We arrived late after a mammoth drive, made worse by waiting in LONG lines for an ATM. The rooms are lovely, huge and cool which is nice. Outdoor showers are a feature of the room so I just had to test that out.
Isalo National Park
Early start this morning to try and beat the heat. Our walk started with lots of action. Just a few minutes from the carpark we entered a picnic area and saw a troop of Ringtail Lemurs chasing away a Red Fronted Brown Lemurs. And if that wasn’t good enough, just 10 metres away was a small group of Verrauxs Sifaka ( Propithecus verrauxi ), playing like naughty toddlers. We spent almost half an hour enjoying this spectacle before the Ring Tailed Lemurs once again chased away the Sifaka.
After this we continued our journey up the hillside, stopping to admire the first waterfall, and the clear pool below. After this we continued up the steep sides of the canyon and reached the summit where we were treated to a 360°, panoramic vista that left us in awe
The descent on the far side of this flat topped summit was treacherous, with the ground loose underfoot. It was truly worth it though when we reached the far side, beautiful waterfalls and two icy cold pools. I couldnt resist those cool waters and took a swim, allowing the waterfall to massage my tired shoulders – absolute bliss. After sun drying we started the hike back to the car. On the way we were shown a couple of Long Eared Owl Chicks, fluffy, tired and miserable seems to describe them best.
Zombitse Vohibasia National Park
Leaving Ranohira and heading towards Ifaty on the South West Coast, I begged Mamy to stop at Zombitse National Park as I had heard the was home to the Standings Day Gecko (Phelsuma standingi). When we got there it was one of the driest forests I had ever seen. Sandy soil, densely packed with desiccated trees and thorn scrub. It was almost impossible to stray from the path to explore the surrounding bush.
Surprisingly there was a large number of Chameleons and Day Geckos, including the beautiful Standings. We also got to see night active Sportive Lemurs, blinking owlishly in the blinding sunlight. We only had the briefest hour before getting back in the bus, but we were not disappointed here.
We carried on towards what would be our last new location of this trip, the seaside town of Ifaty on the Mozambique Channel. When we arrived at the Ifaty Beach Club Resort, we were greeted by two tame Vasa Parrots (Coracopsis nigra), a species that we had so far only seen in the distance whilst at the Ranomafana Arboretum
Ifaty Beach Club Resort
Time for some rest and recuperation, and what a stunning place to do that. This resort is the definition of on the beach, with the warm, shallow waters of the Mozambique Channel running to the distant shores of mainland Africa. Here the food was good, the pools were cool and the beds were the size of a small country. Even with the relaxation time we still found the time to visit the local spiny forest. Here we were greeted by scores of Three Eyed Lizards (Chalaradon madagascariensis), Madagascan Collared Iguanas (Oplurus cyclura) and yet more Standings Day Geckos (Phelsuma standingi).
We also got to see Hedgehog Tenrecs, not an actual hedgehog, but a unique species that has evolved to fill the same niche as hedgehogs do elsewhere in the world. This would be the spiritual end of our amazing trip, as we only have the long journey home after this. Madagascar has been all that I had hoped for!
As our adventure drew to a close, I found myself reflecting on the sheer magic of Madagascar. From the haunting calls of the Indri in Andasibe to the surreal landscapes of Isalo, from the tiny, elusive chameleons to the playful lemurs that came within arm’s reach—every moment was a gift.
This journey was more than just a trip; it was a deep dive into one of the most unique ecosystems on the planet, a place where nature still thrives in its rawest form. The warmth of the Malagasy people, the beauty of the landscapes, and the encounters with creatures found nowhere else in the world made this an experience I will never forget.
Madagascar had been on my travel list for decades, and it did not disappoint. If anything, it left me longing to return, to explore even more of its hidden wonders. Until next time, Madagascar—thank you for the adventure of a lifetime.